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Rare Antique French Turtle Brooch

12 March 2018

A French, turtle brooch, with sprung moving head, legs and tail, set with cushion shaped emeralds and old-cut diamonds, in millegrain edged rub over settings, in the shell, mounted in 18ct gold, engraved to represent the shell and skin of the turtle, with cabochon-cut ruby eyes. With French eagle mark, for 18ct gold and and E P maker’s mark.

About the designer:

Edmond Plisson’s mark is a lozenge, with E P, with a cat sitting between the two letters. This mark was in use between 1885 and 1898.
E.P. un chat assis

Here is the timeline for Edmond Plisson’s career:

  • 1872-1886 Bottentuit & Plisson Begun in 1872 by Plisson and partner Bottentuit
  • 1886-1898Edmond Plisson, Plisson directed the firm alone from 1886 to 1898
  • 1898-1904 Plisson et Hartz.
  • 1898 Plisson was joined by longtime associate Hartz. Their jewelry firm excelled at making jewelry in the Art Nouveau style, as well as gold chimerical and animal designs. Hartz was the creative force behind their designs. Plisson continued in the company until his death in 1904, at which time Hartz continued the firm as Hartz et cie.

Makers Mark:

Specialties

Art Nouveau jewelers.
Specialized in chimerical jewels.
Later they introduced animal and flower jewelry.

Hartz et Cie
Paris
France
e.1904

Emma Reeves
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